Something New- (K)new Restaurant

My uncle John is the king of discovering Chicago's tucked away dining treasures. He continually amazes me with his ability to find the city's most hidden gems. Imagine my shock, then, when my informant to the best kept secrets in the city chose the recently opened, highly anticipated (k)new (2556 W. Fullerton Ave) Restaurant for his birthday celebration last week.

Chef Omar Rodriguez staked his claim in the city with his celebrated Think Cafe, a Bucktown BYO that closed in August 2009. (k)new's doors opened a few weeks ago, and this small, trendy boutique BYO has already taken Logan Square by storm. The quaint restaurant seats just over 100 people and every table was full when I arrived at 7:30 on a Friday evening, making this a very a-typical selection for my uncle.

Chef Rodriguez's menu is eclectic to say the very least and his big risks often pay off three times over. His all-star appetizer is a Piquillo pepper, stuffed with lump crab, goat cheese and black truffle, cooked in white truffle oil and served with a saffron butter emulsion. The flavors were unique but pleasant. Lump crab and goat cheese are both extremely bold flavors, and I must admit that I was hesitant at first glance. Also enjoyable, but a bit more "safe" were the Portabella mushrooms served in a walnut pesto and the Prime Beef Medallions in a ginger currant demi-glaze.

Throwing caution to the wind, Chef Rodriguez stacks his menu with inventive entrees, turning the ordinary into the extraordinary. It was difficult to pick a favorite- the Penne Pasta with goat cheese, toasted almonds, and a white wine poached pear was creamy and rich; the Peppercorn Crusted Buffalo Filet was tender and succulent; the Rack of Lamb, cooked perfectly, was gnaw-on-the-bone delicious.

Though many Bucktown locals will miss Think Cafe, I'm quite confident they will find a new favorite in (k)new. Chef Rodriguez's creative dishes do not disappoint and, though the excellence in service does not match the excellence in cuisine (inattentive and shy to make recommendations), this Logan Square BYO is certainly a bright (k)new start.